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Beauregard's Tailor

1861 JT Martin Contract Infantry Trousers

1861 JT Martin Contract Infantry Trousers

Regular price $245.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $245.00 USD
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“28. For Enlisted Men, except companies of Light Artillery - dark blue cloth; sergeants with a stripe one and one-half inch wide; corporals with a stripe one-half inch wide, of worsted lace, down and over the outer seam, of the color of the facings of the respective corps.” - Uniform and Dress of the Army of the United States, 1861

These regulations were revised by a special order at the end of 1861 that returned most trousers for enlisted men to the “white and light blue mixed, commonly called sky blue” color of the 1851 regulations.

“The Secretary of War directs that the following change be made in the uniform trowsers [sic.] of regimental officers and enlisted men. The cloth to be sky blue mixture. The welt of officers and the stripes for non-commissioned officers of infantry to be of dark blue.” - General Orders No. 108, Headquarters of the Army, December 16, 1861


John T. Martin was a New York pre-war clothing manufacturing firm that started production for the US Army on a contract from1862-1864. It was the largest single private producer, manufacturing over 1,000,000 pairs of trousers for the US Army.

These trousers were distributed to every Federal theater of war, from New York to St. Louis. As the most commonly distributed style of federal trousers, they are versatile enough for a range of different US Army depictions. 

The sideseam pocket version of these trousers is based on a pair in private collection dated from a January 1865 contract. They are made from a sky blue kersery cloth, with two side pockets and one watch pocket. The trousers are a combination of machine and hand sewn, according to the original.

A 2nd variant of the John T. Martin trousers is also offered that has Mule-Ear pockets and is handsewn. This example is also based on a surviving examples of John T. Martin's subcontracted trousers that were handsewn (at least two known examples have survived). 


Langellier, John P. Army Blue: The Uniform of Uncle Sam’s Regulars 1848-1873. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 1998.


  • Custom Sizing

If you select "Custom" sizing, we will contact you via the email you use at checkout to get your measurements.

  • Historic Fit

The trouser sizes noted represent the natural waist measurement of the individual. Please beware these are not modern sizes and failure to utilize true natural waist measurements will result in ill fitting trousers. The tailoring fit and shapes are accurate to the historic garment, which are often different than equivalent modern clothing.

  • Production Time

All historic garments have a production time of five to six months (20-25 weeks).

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